Direct Start Hidden Chimney IV,5**, Mess of Pottage. Coire An T-Sneachda, Cairngorms. 26th November 2012

The alarm went off! I was up and out of bed without delay! Quickly dressed and put the kettle on whilst Vicks readied herself. It was 5.00am and today we were off to the Northern Corries for hopefully our second winter climb of the season. Once we finished our brews we shouldered our packs and loaded the car up, for once we were running a head of schedule. Double checking that we had left nothing behind we jumped in ready for the off! Disaster! The battery was dead! Plan B, we managed to push the car off the drive onto the road which luckily runs down hill. With a lot of effort we managed to get enough momentum to jump start the car, relieved we were off!

Base Station, Cairngorm Mountain. 26/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

It's a long drive from Glasgow to Aviemore so to the pass the time we munched our pre-made breakfast of high energy cereal bars, buttered malt-loaf served with lashing of coffee. We also discussed our route for the day and decided given the forecast that we would climb on Mess of Pottage as it was the closest crag to the ski centre car park, which happens to be very handy when visiting the Northern Corries.

Mess of Pottage? 26/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving at the Base Station (NH990060) also known as the Coire Cas car park it was obvious that we were going to be treated to a day of proper Scottish gnarl. Jumping out the car we quickly changed into our winter over trousers, put our winter boots on, donned our winter jackets and shouldered our packs. Before leaving we popped into the Base Station at the Cairngorm Mountain Resort to check the weather forecast and use the facilities before heading off into the mist.

Me high up on the Direct Start IV,5** to Hidden Chimney II/III**, Northern Corries 26/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The walk into Mess of Pottage is normally quite straight forward but with visibility down to 10m with fresh snow covering all the foot paths today was going to prove to be hard work. We walked along the normal path from the car park in a south westerly direction until it forks (NH987057), turning left we continued in southerly direction until again the path forks (NH987047). Changing direction to south east we continued until we were standing in the main coire floor just below Mess of Pottage (NH995033). We could not see a thing and continued in the same direction until we started to ascend steeply, at this point we found other tracks from other parties that must have been experiencing the same difficulties as us. Eventually we started to box our way up the hillside until we arrived at the unmistakable gully that is Jacob's Ladder.

Me at the belay stance just below Hidden Chimney II/III**, Northern Corries 26/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Taking our packs off we consulted the guide book to make sure we had the correct starting point for our 1st winter climb this season on Mess of Pottage (NH997032). Once satisfied we started to gear up whilst munching on our lunch. We 1st ascended Jacob's Ladder that now has good ice forming to a good belay below the chimneys that lead up on to the Slant. Making sure our belay was good, I started the 1st pitch of our climb. It did not look steep but looks can be deceptive, especially in low visibility. It turned out to be a short pitch but good for the grade and I enjoyed it, I found a good belay then brought Vicks up onto the Slant. The Slant is a rising traverse of the crag and can be used as an escape, or for mixing different routes to give good combinations of all grades. Making short work of this pitch we took a good belay just below Hidden Chimney.

Me just starting Hidden Chimney II/III**, Northern Corries 26/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Consulting the guide book again the line described moves right then back left to the jammed blocks which are the crux of the route. Looking up I decided to keep left into the steep wall which offers lots of good protection but the climbing is more difficult than moving right and up. It took a lot of effort but soon I was under the crux of the climb and making my ascent of the jammed block. After some time and many different attempts I managed to over come the obstacle and found myself standing on the block with my progress halted. Another jammed block presented itself and this time even with my height I could not reach high enough to overcome it. Rearranging my protection I then opted for the steep head wall to my right which I managed to torque my way up and overcome before topping out.

Me having just topped out on Hidden Chimney II/III**, Northern Corries 26/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Exposed to the full force of the weather I wasted no time in locating a belay and bringing Vicks up. The winds blowing across the plateau were vicious and I was freezing up quickly. It seemed to take an age for Vicks to top out and maintaining concentration was difficult in such extreme weather. When Vicks joined me on the summit we quickly celebrated our achievement, then wasted no time in packing the climbing equipment back into the packs and starting our descent in a northerly direction back to the Coire Cas carpark by following the Fiacaill a' Choire Chais ridge to the lines of ski tows and so down to safety.

Conditions on the Mess of Pottage were a little chilly! Me taking a baring. 26/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

It was an epic day and I am looking forward to returning soon. The memories will live on for a long time.