Thursday 18 April 2013

The Cheviot, Northumberland. 14th April 2013

The walk into The Cheviot. 14/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We woke to a blustery day and over breakfast discussed the options for the day's adventures. We decided against climbing or bouldering and settled for a days walking. The hill of choice being The Cheviot, Northumberlands highest hill.

An adder we stumbled across on the track as we walked in. 14/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The day started with a quick visit to Wooler to pick up a map and then we drove the very short distance into Harthope Vally where we parked the car by Harthope Burn (NT955226). It was busy as there was a fell running event on. We quickly changed, packed the rucksack and started our days wanderings.

A female and male frog on the track as we walked in. 14/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The foot path is well way marked and runs along the northern side of Harthope Burn in a south westerly direction to Scotsmans Knowe (NT905190). The walking is straight forward and the ascent is gentle but today the water levels in the burn were high with the heavy rain and snow melt. Large sections of the path were under water causing us to make some quite long detours.

The way markers. 14/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley) 

From Scotsmans Knowe the foot path changes to a north westerly direction and steepens a little as you approach Cairn Hill (NT903195). This hill is also the junction to where the Pennine Way detours to the summit of The Cheviot. Again the foot path changes direction this time to north easterly as it ascends gently towards the summit of The Cheviot.

The summit trig point of The Cheviot. 14/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving at the summit of the The Cheviot the way was blocked by all the melting snow and we thought that we might not make it to the actual summit trig point. But some clever route finding and a long detour we finally managed to attain the summit trig point of The Cheviot (NT909205).

Hedgehope Hill from The Cheviot. 14/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Our descent route was simply to follow the path in north easterly direction to Scald Hill (NT928218). The walking is gentle and the views easy on the eye. Once we were at the summit of Scald Hill we continued for a short distance to a fork in the path (NT933222). Here the path changes direction to easterly and gentle descends through grouse butts back to the road that we used to walk in on.

Housey Crags & Langlee Crags from The Cheviot. 14/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Although when we started this walk the weather was grim and we considered returning to the car early, I'm glad that we stuck with it and finished it. The Cheviot may not be as grand as the mountains of Scotland but it does offer commanding views across the beautiful landscape of Northumberland. 

Housey Crags. 14/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Kyloe Crag & Kyloe in the Woods, Northumberland. 13th April 2013

Me high on the crux of Christmas Tree Arete Direct VS 4c, Kyloe Crag. 13/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The weather forecast for Scotland was not looking good, with heavy rain and a sudden thaw predicted for the weekend. We decided to head south to the beautiful county of Northumberland for some early season rock climbing with friends.


Richard & Pascaline on Eeny VD, Kyloe Crag. 13/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Myself and Vicks travelled down the previous evening and we met Richard and Pascaline at Kyloe Crag just as they were getting ready to gear up. It was a beautiful morning and we all chatted whilst we sorted ourselves out for the days climbing. I suggested that we move from we were to further along the crag before it got busy with other climbers. Everybody agreed to the plan and we made our way along the crag to the main climbing area and started our days climbing.


Richard the happy belayer, Kyloe Crag. 13/04/2013 (Photo: Pascaline Boulanger)

This was Richards and Pascaline's 1st visit to the crags of  Northumberland and even though  the sun was shining the rock was cold on the hands causing them to numb if you stayed in the same position for too long. But despite this we managed to climb just about every route in between severe and very severe without incident.

Me on Mo S, Kyloe Crag. 13/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

As predicted we were also joined by other climbers and soon there was a climber on just about every available line.The vibes were good with friendly banter being exchanged with all the climbers whilst waiting to get on climbs.

Richard & Pascaline, Kyloe Crag. 13/04/2013 (Photo: Pascaline Boulanger)

It turned out to be a fantastic day with fantastic weather. All of us achieved our goals for the day making the short journey to Belford for a quick pint at the Bluebell Hotel all the more satisfying. A great way to celebrate a good day and Richards and Pascaline's 1st visit to Northumberland.  

Me on Z Climb VS 4c, Kyloe in the Woods. 13/04/2013 (Photo: Pascaline Boulanger)

Wednesday 17 April 2013

Number Three Gully Buttress Direct Finish IV,5*, Number Three Gully Buttress. Ben Nevis. 6th April 2013

Early morning view from the Glen Nevis campsite. 06/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)
The thought of climbing on Ben Nevis in April had never really crossed my mind before, but this has been an exceptional winter for Scotland and the opportunity to get another winter ascent in was not to be missed. Big B met me at North Face car park, I already had the bacon butties on the go and over bacon butties and coffee we formed the plan for the day.

Ready for the off, Me & Big B at the North Face car park. 06/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Once we had eaten our fill and sorted the gear we started the long approach to the North Face of Ben Nevis. We followed the same route I used last month when I did the Carn Mor Dearg Arete but this time instead of turning off the path we continued to the CIC Hut (NN167722), here we rested and geared up. It was a beautiful morning and climbers were out in force making the most of these wonderful conditions. We chatted for some time with the guides that had being staying in the hut before continuing on our way up into Coire Na Ciste (NN163717).

Approaching the North Face of Ben Nevis. 06/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving in the coire below the steep approach slopes we donned the metal ware, checked the guide book and after a short discussion we started to ascend the steep snow slopes to the 1st belay stance. 1st thing we did was to carve a huge ledge into the concrete like snow so we could stand with ease, we then used ice screws to make our belay and once all was sorted Big B set to the task of the 1st pitch.

North-East Buttress & The Douglas Boulder & Tower Ridge, Ben Nevis. 06/04/2013. (Photo: A J Thorley)

It did not take long for Big B to dispatch the 1st pitch but for some reason it seemed to take an age for him to make a belay stance and give me the shout to climb. The call eventually came and I soon joined Big B at his self confessed dodgy belay. I took the next pitch which for some reason made me very nervous, it was not hard or technical. I calmed myself, continued to climb and eventually found a bomb proof belay and then brought Big B up.

Good ice on the Lower Cascades, Ben Nevis. 06/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

From my stance Big B led the next pitch which we thought was going to be the crux and the exposed section of the climb. As it turned out this was not the case and Big B had surmounted what we thought was the crux and then continued to a good belay and then called for me to join him. At Big B's stance we started to get a little confused as the length of the route was not adding up to the amount of climbing that we had already done. None the less I led on and after maybe 30 meters soon came to an abrupt halt. I had discovered the crux of the climb and after a lot of faffing decided to take a belay and bring Big B up for his verdict.

The Comb-Number Three Gully Buttress, Ben Nevis. 06/04/20113 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Big B came up to my stance and soon came to the same conclusion as me. It was not worth the risk and an alternative option would have to be found. Big B led on nervously at 1st and after some humming and hawing soon found a way that would give us access to the summit. He settled into a good pace and soon had me on belay and brought me up to the summit plateau. Shaking hands we celebrated our success, rested for a little while and then packed the equipment away before starting our descent.

Looking down Number Three Gully Buttress III*** to Big B and his shoddy belay! Ben Nevis 06/04/2013
(Photo: A J Thorley)

From our position on the summit plateau (NN161714) we descended towards the top of Red Burn Gully (NN155721). Once we reached the gully we enjoyed a very bumpy bum slide down the steep slope virtually all the way to the tourist track where we then continued to walk out on the route described when I did the Carn Mor Dearg Arete.It was certainly a cracking day out on Ben Nevis and one that will live with me for many years to come.

Big B after completing what we thought was the crux of Number Three Gully Buttress III***, Ben Nevis. 06/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Once we finally returned to the car we drove the short Distance to Glen Nevis where we met friends for celebration drinks and a well earned bar meal. A great way to end an amazing adventure on the UK's highest mountain.

Big B after topping out Number Three Gully Buttress III***, Ben Nevis. 06/04/2013